Thursday, July 30, 2009

Pet passports - What are they and can you use them for pet travel?

Pet passports - What are they and can you use them for pet travel?

uly 27th, 2009
By Pet Relocation, admin

When humans travel internationally, they get a passport issued, so it makes sense that pets would need one too. However, there is a lot of confusion about pet passports, particularly in the US.

The pet passport concept was started for moving pets to the UK to simplify the process of importing pets from different countries with history of rabies. The passport itself comes in multiple forms, sometimes a pink piece of paper and sometimes a small blue booklet. It contains the microchip number of the animal, the certification that it has had a rabies vaccination, and needs to be signed by an officially approved veterinarian. The pet passport is technically exclusively valid for pet travel to the EU and the UK -- however some countries will accept the vaccination records in the passport as the first vaccination documentation.

There are many unofficial versions of pet passports available for sale on the internet and in pet stores. A good example is this Pocket Reference Journal found here. It's important to note that these are not acceptable for international travel. They are merely made to be an unofficial record of your pet's vaccination history and to be a convenient place to store everything.

Bottom line: If you're moving pets to the UK or EU, a pet passport able to be a tool in moving your pets. However, having completely of your first documentation able to replace the pet passport -- in different words you don't must have a little blue book. For completely different countries, having your pet's first documentation (rabies certificates, vaccination records, blood tests, etc.) will be sufficient.

United States Pet Import Requirements

United States Pet Import Requirements

Requirements for Pets Entering the United States

Below are the vaccination and health requirements for dogs and cats entering the United States from other countries.
Dogs and Cats

1) International Health Certificate - Within 10 days of departure your vet will need to issue an International Health Certificate as required by all airlines. This certificate states that your pet is in good health and OK to fly.

2) Rabies Vaccination & Certificate - In general, it is required that dogs be vaccinated against rabies at least 30 days prior to entry, except for puppies younger than 3 months and dogs originated or located for 6 months in areas considered to be free of rabies. Dogs and cats coming from areas not free of rabies must be accompanied by a valid rabies vaccination certificate. If a vaccination has not been performed, or if the certificate is not valid, the animal might be admitted if it is confined immediately upon arrival at a place of the owner's choosing. The dog must be vaccinated within four days after arrival at the final destination, but no more than 10 days after arrival at the port of entry. The animal must remain in confinement for at least 30 days after being vaccinated.
All cats and dogs are subject to inspection at ports of entry for evidence of infectious diseases that can be transmitted to humans.

Keep your Pet Clear of the Next Pet Food Recall…here are the ‘red Flags’ of Pet Food

Keep your Pet Clear of the Next Pet Food Recall…here are the ‘red Flags’ of Pet Food

Last year turned out to be the worst in history for pet food recalls. While there is no way to be 100% certain that a pet food is not tainted or will be recalled, there are many red flags to look for when selecting your dog's or cat's food. Avoiding these frequent pet food ingredients able to greatly improve your odds in purchasing a healthy, safe pet food.

Judging the safety or the nutritional value of a pet food starts by ignoring the advertising, the price of the pet food, and ignoring the front of the bag. The real signs to the safety of a dog food or cat food lie on the back or side of the bag or able to in the 'Ingredient Listing'. Regardless of what marketing terms ('choice', 'premium', and so on) are on the front of the bag or able to of pet food, a pet owner cannot determine the quality or how safe the food is unless they look at the ingredients. With dry foods there able to be 90 different ingredients (or more), with canned foods there able to be 50 or more different ingredients. But don't panic...you don't must understand hundreds of different pet food ingredients! You just need to be aware of a couple of key ingredients...pet food ingredients that you do NOT want to see in a dog food or cat food (or treats).

'Wheat Gluten', 'Corn Gluten', or 'Rice Gluten'. These three ingredients were the bad boy pet food ingredients of 2007. Tainted glutens were found to be the lead to of thousands of dogs and cats becoming ill and dying. It is not that glutens themselves are toxic to pets -- these ingredients have been used in pet foods for years. The problem was the document or manufacturer of the glutens -- imported from countries with far less quality standards than in the US. (The most of glutens used in the US pet foods are from imported sources.) These imported glutens contained added chemicals that caused crystals to form in the kidneys of dogs and cats.

Not exclusively is it important to avoid dog foods and cat foods (and dog and cat treats) that contain glutens due to of the possibility of dangerous added chemicals, it is important due to they add no real quality nutrition to the food. Glutens are used as a thickener AND as a document of protein in pet food. Adult maintenance dog foods must give a minimum of 18% protein, adult maintenance cat foods must give a minimum of 26% protein. If the meat document of the pet food does not give enough protein, glutens are often added to boost the protein level of the pet food. The best nutrition for your pet comes from a meat protein pet food not from a gluten protein. Avoid dog foods and cat foods (and treats) that contain 'corn gluten', 'wheat gluten', or 'soy gluten'.

'By Products'. By-products have never been the lead to of a pet food recall, but they are definitely ingredients you want to avoid feeding your pet. To give you an understanding of by-products, I'd alike to compare this pet food compound to pies -- you know, the dessert! How numerous different types of pies you able to think of? There are apple pies, cherry pies, chocolate pies, meringue pies, meat pies, mud pies, pie in math, cow pies (yuck!) -- I think you get my point. Now imagine if you purchased yourself a prepared ravioli dinner at the grocery and you looked at the ingredients and you see 'pie' listed as the first compound in your dinner. Hmmm, pie in ravioli -- what kind of pie? You wouldn't cognize if it was apple pie or mud pie or even cow pie. All you would cognize is that your dinner contained 'pie'. Considering 'pie' could be anything from apple pie to cow pie -- my guess is that you wouldn't be having ravioli for dinner. Same thing with by-products in pet food.

AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials -- the organization responsible for completely animal feed manufacturing rules and regulations) defines by-products as "meat by-products is the non-rendered, clean parts, different than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth, and hoofs. It shall be suitable for use in animal food. If it bears name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto."

So, with respect to pet food -- a by-product is a catch-all compound name. All left over meat materials from the human food industry are clumped into one compound name -- by-product. There is NO certainty of what you are feeding -- one batch of pet food might be more intestine by-products while the next batch of pet food might be more liver or bone by-products. There is NO way of knowing what is actually contained in the pet food compound by-product (the pet food manufacturers themselves couldn't tell you exactly). Avoid dog foods and cat foods (and treats) that contain By-products of any kind...Chicken By-Products, Beef By-Products, Chicken By-Product Meal, Beef By-Product Meal, and so forth.

'Meat Meal', 'Meat and Bone Meal', or 'Animal Digest'. These three ingredients are similar to by-products. AAFCO defines Meat and Bone Meal as "the rendered product from mammal tissues, including bone, exclusive of any added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably to good processing practices." Again, a catch completely compound name for the left-over parts of animals used for human food. No consistency to what is contained in these ingredients (all three of these pet food compound definitions are similar) -- no way of knowing what is actually in your pet's food. Avoid dog foods, cat foods, and dog and cat treats that contain 'meat meal', 'meat and bone meal', or 'animal digest'.

'Animal Fat'. In 2002 the FDA tested numerous different brands of dog food (cat food was not tested) for the presence of the medicine pentobarbital. Many brands of dog food tested positive to contain the drug. Pentobarbital is the medicine used to euthanize dogs, cats, cattle, and horses.

How able to the medicine that is used to euthanize animals be found in pet food? The answer -- euthanized animals are rendered (cooked) and the end ingredients are placed in pet food. It has long been rumored that euthanized dogs and cats (from animal shelters and veterinarian offices) is the major document of the pentobarbital in pet food. However no one has been able to prove or disprove this rumor to date. The FDA/CVM (Center for Veterinary Management) developed testing methods on two separate occasions to determine the species document of the drug. No results have ever been determined. The pet food manufacturers adamantly deny they use rendered dogs or cats -- but NO clinical evidence has ever been released to confirm the pentobarbital is from euthanized cattle and horses in pet food as they claim.

However, the one thing the FDA/CVM has determined through their testing is the pet food compound 'animal fat' is the most frequent compound to contain pentobarbital. In different words, if you are feeding a dog food or cat food (or treats) with the compound 'animal fat' in the compound listing -- you are (more than likely) feeding your pet euthanized animals. Not every batch of pet food tested that contained the compound 'animal fat' has proved to contain pentobarbital -- but why would any pet owner want to take the chance? Avoid dog foods, cat foods, and dog and cat treats that contain the compound 'animal fat'.

'BHA', 'BHT', 'TBHQ', and 'Ethoxyquin'. These pet food ingredients are chemical preservatives and you might must look through the entire compound list to find them. It is worth the look due to there is plenty of clinical evidence to relate completely four of these chemical preservatives with cancer and tumors (simply do a Google search on any one of these chemicals). All four of these chemical preservatives are rarely used to preserve human food and if so, are used in quantities far less than what is allowed in pet food. Avoid any dog food, cat food, or dog and cat treat that contains 'BHA', 'BHT', 'TBHQ', and 'Ethoxyquin' on the label.

'Corn', 'Wheat', 'Soy'. While there is no scientific evidence that proves these ingredients are dangerous to pets -- they are potentially dangerous ingredients associated with recalls in the past (1995, 1999, and 2005). These grains are highly prone to a deadly mold (aflatoxin). It is suggested (by AAFCO) that completely pet food manufacturers test grains for the mold, but as recalls of the past have proven -- that doesn't always happen. I do not think these ingredients are as risky as others told above, but they are ingredients I avoid for my own pets.

There is more to selecting a true fit pet food for your dog or cat than avoiding the above told ingredients. This is just a start -- based on pet food history, AAFCO compound definitions, science and opinion of numerous pet food experts including myself. There are numerous quality pet foods accessible that do NOT use the above ingredients and that add health promoting ingredients to their foods and treats. Continue to learn as much as you able to about what you are feeding your pet and ALWAYS read the labels!

Monday, July 27, 2009

Don’t be afraid! Max is here!

Don’t be afraid! Max is here!

I have been busy sniffing out information about the recent
pet food scare. I have information to share with you all that
I learned from my Humans.

First, here is important information about the dog food recall.

Secondly, here is information about the cat food recall.

NOT TO WORRY! I want to share with you the secret to
my health: Natural Balance dry and moist food, and rolls!

Dick Van Patten says, "My Natural Balance? Pet Food is the finest food
you able to purchase for your pet,and no matter which of our products you use,
you able to be assured that it istruly the "Food For a Lifetime" SM

WOW! Whatta guy! ARF!

My Jeffers family wants you to know that we are not affiliated with any products
that are involved in the Pet Food Recall. Our Natural Balance? products are
safe and healthy! Give 'em a try! And be sure to let me know what you think!

Max

This entry was posted on Friday, April 6th, 2007 at 7:33 pm and is filed under Online Pet Supplies, Pet Store, Pet Supplies. You able to follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You able to leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

It’s A Dog’s Life

It’s A Dog’s Life

ดูภาพขนาดใหญ่


Hello world, my name is Max. I'm an English Sheep Dog, and I watch over the Jeffers' family. After years of hearing "Speak boy.... Speak!"...I decided to.

Well actually, I've been asked by the Jeffers family to be their Spokes-Dog. I've got a young pup in training to take over my paper-fetching route so I thought, " Why not?"

I'll be writing about pet supplies, trying out early pet toys (my favorite!) and asking your ideas on what you would alike to see.

From time to time I might even ask one of my many friends here at Jeffers Pet to fill in and be a guest Spokes-Animal. (I still have my REAL job of looking out for The Jeffers Family and their pets...famous Spokes-Dog or not...I think it's important to set a good example of doing the right thing for different pets!)

Well, I hear a strange truck pulling up the driveway..I've got work to do. We'll talk soon...oh, and be sure to write!

Max

This entry was posted on Thursday, March 29th, 2007 at 6:56 pm and is filed under New Pet Products, Online Pet Supplies, Pet Supplies. You able to follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You able to leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

What’s in a Name? - Understanding Pet Food Labels

What’s in a Name? - Understanding Pet Food Labels



Ever wonder about your pet's food? What's in it and how much? Of course, you expect the name to tell you something about what is in it - or does it?

Here is the equivalent to your secret decoder ring for pet food labels:

Pet food labels are regulated on two levels. There are federal regulations and many states have their own regulations as well, usually matching those of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).

Federal regulations (enforced by the FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine), establish standards for completely animal feeds, such as proper identification (logo, brand, name), net quantity listing, manufacturer's address and proper compound listing. State regulations are more specific in covering the product's name, the guaranteed analysis and nutrition information as well as feeding directions.

Did you know that the name of a pet food is far more important than just a label identifier or cute marketing technique? The way a product is named, such as the order of compound words is strictly regulated. For example, "Chicken and Rice Dog Food" is very different from "Rice and Chicken Dog Food".

It's In There...

In order to say "Chicken Dog Food", the product has to contain 95% chicken (not such as added water - 70% if you count the added water). If the product name is "Chicken Dinner for Dogs" or "Chicken Formula for Dogs", it must contain at least 25% chicken (but less than 95%). If the name uses "with", e.g. "Cat Food with Tuna", it has to be at least 3% tuna (but less than 25%).

If the word "flavor" is used (such as Beef Flavor Dog Food), there is no required percentage as long as the compound is detectable. Beef flavor might be from beef or beef by-products or beef meal. Stocks and broths might be used, as well. Whey is often used to give a milk flavor.

If more than one compound is included in the name (Chicken & Rice or Bacon & Cheese, etc), completely of the same rules apply to the combined ingredients. In other words, the two ingredients must together equal the minimums set for each naming convention discussed. In a "Dinner" each named compound must be at least 3% and must total 25% together. It is important which comes first in the name. If there is more rice than chicken it must be named Rice & Chicken, not Chicken & Rice. In addition to the product name, the compound listing has to be by order of content, that is, the compound that comprises the largest percentage must be listed first and the smallest percentage last.

Here's my question: If the government is spending time, money and energy regulating the naming of dog foods, then why don't they make it more widely well-known what exactly those naming conventions mean? Why not let the average pet owner know how to determine what or how much of an compound is in their pets' food?

Natural Balance Dog Foods and Cat Foods are made from the finest ingredients with no corn, wheat, soy, eggs, dairy or sunflower oil. These items are suspected to lead to allergic reactions e.g. hair loss, scratching, hives, tail biting, chewing feet, and ear infections. Take a look at the label and compound list of any Natural Balance product. Compare to other major brands. You'll see why JeffersPet proudly sells Natural Balance products.

Coming Soon - Evanger's label dog foods. Look for it in our early catalog due out in mid-July.

This entry was posted on Thursday, June 18th, 2009 at 4:15 pm and is filed under Discount Pet Supplies, Online Pet Supplies, Pet Supplies, Wholesale Pet Supplies. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Kuranda dog bed--BOLSTER DOG BED

Kuranda dog bed
A Kuranda dog bed is one of the products of Kuranda USA. Kuranda USA is a small manufacturing company that was established in 1987. Though the company markets a number of products, the manufacture of dog beds is at the core of its business. The company is known for introducing industry-leading dog beds. The company was known for the manufacture of circular dog bed in the late 1980s but this was designated since it was costly to make and ship. The original rectangular dog bed replaced the circular one. The company followed this up with the poly resin bed in 1998 and in 2003 the aluminum version of the poly resin bed was introduced.
Their beds are known for their quality; their dog beds are known for the soft comfort, easy replaceable fabric and parts and known for durability. A Kuranda dog bed is also known for its superior advantage over different dog beds in the market. Their beds are completely designed to perform well and designed as well to last for a long time. Their products are easy to maintain as well. And no matter where the dogs will be kept, in the kennel, backyard or home, the beds from Kuranda are expected to deliver great comfort and convenience for dogs. Of the many dog bed products that if offer; the poly resin Kuranda dog bed is the most popular. This dog bed comes in four sizes, is lightweight and non-corrosive as well producing this dog bed ideal for home and outdoor use.

BOLSTER DOG BED

Are you trying to find a bed for your cute dog but still haven't decided about what to get and what designs you think will be suitable for your pet? Let me support you get many idea about one type of dog bed which maybe you're already curious in getting today. There are a lot of different types of dog beds accessible in the market and one would be the Bolster Dog Bed. Bolster means a long narrow cushion that is filled with fibre inside and so the bolster dog bed is made of the same products (the cushion and the fibre) with additional designs that were added to it. There are different types of bolster dog beds were you able to choose from. These are the therapeutic bolster bed that is sold on-the-internet from $149, the deep dish Faux Suede Dog's Nest which costs from $129, Deluxe Faux Comfort Couch which is sold from $199, Ultimate Fleece Wraparound Bed costs from $89.99, Deep Dish Canvas Dog's Nest sold from $129, Double Bolster Bed sold from $139, Faux Suede Bagel Dog Bed ranging from $49, Deluxe Canvas Comfort Couch which costs from $119, Double--High Bagel Dog Bed that costs from $98, Deluxe Deep Dish Dog Bed which costs from $129, Super--Absorbent Therapeutic Bolster Bed that costs from $169, the Outdoor Deep Dish Dog Bed ranging from $239, Easy--Care Dog Bed which is around $49, the Dog's Own Lounger which costs from $129 and the Bagel Dog Beds which costs from $109. These are the bolster dog beds that you able to choose from.

Innotek dog collar--How To Install Toilet Wax Seal

Innotek dog collar

Traditionally dog collars that are used by dog owners are those accessories or materials that are placed around the neck of the dog. These materials are used to control the dog, identify it and for fashion as well. But with the recent advancement in science, even dog materials and accessories are not exempt as well from the rapid advancement of technologies and design. And dog collars are examples of those dog accessories and materials that have been improved, modified and upgraded. Dog collars of today aren't just materials that are used to identify the dog and lead the animal to your chosen trail. Collars of today are designed intelligently as well. An example is the Innotek dog collar accessible in the market.
Dog collars from Innotek are known for their intelligent designs. The company offers training collars to no-bark collars. No-bark collars are fast gaining attention in the market and these materials are perfect for families who might want to control the barking behavior of their pet. Their Spray Bark Control Collar when used able to effectively interrupt the barking of the dog the moment this is worn. This specific type of Innotek dog collar works since this releases a safe burst of all-natural, and lemon-scented spray that able to inhibit the pet from barking. Their dog collar will include an auto set feature that will monitor the dog's barking. This able to be seen on the automatic no-bark model of the brand. The system used is easy to use with no external controls or settings that able to complicate its use. The no-bark model is just one of the many models of dog collars offered by Innotek.

How To Install Toilet Wax Seal

Installing a new toilet wax seal is very easy and you do not need the help of a professional. You can replace a toilet wax seal by yourself and you do not have to wait for a plumber to do the job. Here are simple guidelines on how to install toilet wax seal.

The seal is a gasket made of wax, which rests on the floor of the toilet. You can buy toilet wax seal replacement in any hardware store. It prevents the floor and sub-floor from any change and toilet wax seal is very affordable. When doing this procedure, make sure that it is at least seventy degrees Fahrenheit in temperature so you can easily mold the wax.

Be sure that you put on rubber gloves in installing the leaky seal. Remember to shut off your water supply. Before starting, flush the toilet one or two times so the bowl and tank can be emptied. To remove the remaining water from the bowl and the tank, you can use a sponge. The next step is to take away the caps on the nuts, which holds the bottom of the bowl. Then, take away the nuts by using oil and pliers.

You can now disconnect the line of your water supply. To break the seal, softly shake the toilet back and fort. Grasp the bowl very carefully, but not he tank. You can easily crack or break the tank if you hold the tank. Take away the remains of the old seal.

The next step is to remove the wax seal and put over the extension on the floor, producing sure that the round part is facing up and in the middle of the opening. Raise the toilet and set it on the flange, and make sure to level it. Put on the nuts and tighten them using your hand. Then, connect your water supply line.

Switch on the water supply and when the tank is filled, flush the toilet to check for any leaks.

Saturday, July 25, 2009

The Obama puppy: The breeder tells the tale

The Obama puppy: The breeder tells the tale

By Christie Keith


Texas Portuguese Water Dog breeder Martha Stern is no stranger to placing her puppies with the famous and powerful. She bred Sen. Ted Kennedy's beloved dogs Splash, Sunny and Cappy. And now it turns out she and her husband, Art, are the breeders of the new First Dog, Bo --- or Amigo's New Hope, his registered name.

The news started leaking two days ago, when gossip site TMZ published a story that Sen. Kennedy would be giving the Obama girls the puppy their father had promised them when he was on the campaign trail. The breeder wasn't identified, but the puppy was said to be of the "same lineage" of the Kennedy dogs.

I'd spoken to Stern a couple of months earlier, when rumors were flying that she'd sold a puppy to the Obamas. The basis for the rumor seemed to be not much more than the fact that she was the breeder of the Kennedy's dogs, the Obamas had expressed an interest in the breed, and there was a puppy in the same litter from which Sen. Kennedy had gotten his newest puppy with the registered name of "Amigo's Change to Believe In."

At the time she said the rumor wasn't true. "I did have what I called my 'Hope' litter, and completely of them are named Hope or Change, or something alike that, but no, they did not..." she told me then. "I would have loved to place a puppy with them. I think." She paused, then laughed. "I'm not sure. Let me ponder on it a less bit."

I left her a message yesterday, wanting to find out what the story was now. When I heard back from her this morning, she told me this had completely transpired after we talked.

"Yeah, I called the girl who has Amigo's Change to Believe In, and she laughed and laughed," Stern said. "She's been a huge Obama supporter from the beginning. She said she made 1500 phone calls for him during the campaign. She told me, 'He able to have my money, but he can't have my dog.'"

While the Obamas had wanted to adopt a rescue or shelter dog, they had their hearts set on a Portuguese Water Dog. This was partly because they fell in love with the Kennedy's dogs, and partly because Malia Obama suffers from allergies.

Portuguese Water Dogs, alike their Poodle relatives and a couple of different breeds, have what's well-known as a "single" coat. These coats shed less than the more common canine double coat, and so less dander gets deposited in the environment. This sometimes makes them less of a problem for people with allergies.

It was Sen. Kennedy's wife, Vicki, who heard about a littermate of Cappy's in Washington DC who was probably going to be needing a new home. The family had two older Portuguese Water Dogs, and when one of them died, they got a puppy to keep their remaining dog company.

"Usually that works out completely right," said Stern. "But not this time. This less puppy was quite rambunctious, and I think he kind of barreled in there and tried to nurse off the older dog when he first got there. And she said, 'You've got to be kidding.' She did not understand this at all, and just lay around growling at him."

Around two months ago, the owners made the decision to let the older dog have her peace and quiet back. "Vicki Kennedy found out about it, and she said, 'This is a perfect situation, Martha.' And after I thought about it, I had to agree."

Stern respects the desire to give a shelter or rescue dog a home, but feels the Obamas have the right to get the dog they want for their family. She said it would have been difficult for them to get a PWD from a rescue or shelter because the national breed club takes a very strong stand on breeder responsibility.

"We don't want any of our dogs to end up homeless. And the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America, that we belong to, requires that their breeders take back their dogs if for any reason, any think at all, the people can't care for the dog. That's what responsible breeders do, always.

"Things happen; people die, people get divorced, people lose their jobs, lose their homes. But the one thing that's always constant is that the dog is a family member, and deserves a loving home."

Does she think Bo's fame will bring the curse of popularity --- puppies being bred and sold for profit by people wanting to cash in on the latest craze --- down on the breed?

"I'm sure it will be a problem to many extent, but we have been so careful keeping our dogs out of puppy mills. There are many out there, unfortunately, but if you go to the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America website, and contact a breeder listed there, you'll be in good hands. If they don't have a puppy, they'll refer you to someone who does. They'll support educate you, and that site has tons of information about the breed.

"When I first got the breed, the man told me, this dog is not for everybody. And I thought, you fool, this dog is the most versatile dog I've ever seen. But I've come to realize he was right.

"As a breeder it's my responsibility to support people find the right puppy for them. So I make them come here and visit me, look over their children, see if the dog will be in a good home. We evaluate the dogs with another breeder at 7 and a half weeks, and we look at the families we have, and we assign the puppy to a family. And if they don't want that puppy, I'll find that puppy another good home."

I asked her if the Obamas would have made the cut even if they weren't the FIrst Family. She laughed. "If he was not the president, they'd still be high on my list. Their children are treated as less adults. They have very good manners. I heard from Vicki that Michelle said she was going to be responsible for this dog. That's what you want to hear, not that parents will hand the dog over to the children. It's going to be their dog, and the children able to play with it. That's what you must insist on.

"They have a very well-rounded family and shouldn't have any problems with the new puppy." She laughed again. "Grandma did a very good job raising her kids, too. She has a son who's a head coach for many basketball team up there, and Michelle is the wife of the President and an accomplished lawyer. This family, they don't fail. Those kind of families, they do their research."

She thinks the research is going to pay off, and that things are going to go just fine with the new Obama puppy. But she had one word of warning for Bo's new family.

"He's in training right now. He's going to be a less gentleman, believe me -- until he sees that fountain. He'll be splashing around and saying, 'Where's the fish? Where's the fish?'" She laughed. "We're expecting great things of that less fellow."

While we were talking, her husband was on the different line with the Washington Post. I asked how she felt about the media attention, and if she had any concerns about it. "It's been good and bad, but overall I'm glad it gives me a chance to talk about the most important thing." She laughed again. "They gave me a list of talking points, and I was, hell, I know what I able to say. I'm 70 years old; I know the point I want to make, and it's this: Responsible breeders are responsible for the dogs they place for life."

Getting a leg up

Getting a leg up

An MU veterinarian invents a device to diagnose horse lameness

Story by Dale Smith | Photos by Rob Hill

Reprinted with permission of MIZZOU magazine.

Emily and Gunner jogging

Veterinary medicine student Emily Bond jogs with Gunner, who wears two acclerometers [sic] and a gyroscope to diagnose lameness. As Gunner runs, the lightweight devices on his head, rump and right front foot transmit information to a computer with software that helps pinpoint the problem.
- Photo by Rob Hill

When one of us two-legged patients goes to the doctor with, say, a sore elbow, we give our clinicians many critical, if basic, information. We point to the joint. We say, "It's this one, doc."

But horses, with the possible exception of Mister Ed, are less forthcoming. That leaves veterinarians to figure out the problem using their own two eyes and whatever training and intuition they able to muster. Diagnosing and treating subtle lameness is the most common task equine vets face day in, day out. "Even small injuries very affect how well horses able to do their work," says Kevin Keegan, BS Ag '78, DVM '83, who directs MU's E. Paige Laurie Equine Lameness Program.

Horses in the 21st century likely work as one of the nation's 3.9 million mounts for pleasure riding or 2.7 million animals that compete in shows. The economic affect of recreational riding and showing horses is $60.6 billion a year, according to the American Horse Council. If you throw in horses employed in racing and different pursuits such as workers on farms, ranches and police beats, the affect could be as high as $102 billion.

With stakes that high, horse owners have their own lobby in Washington, D.C., and equine vets spend lots of time watching lame horses trot back and forth to gather clues about which joint or muscle or tendon or ligament is the culprit.

There's always a catch

But there's a fatal flaw with this scenario, Keegan says: Focusing a trained eye on a horse with subtle lameness isn't always a reliable way to initiate the diagnostic process. Keegan noticed the problem long ago and, with colleagues, has been conducting research on it since joining the College of Veterinary Medicine faculty in 1990. Keegan latterly went to market with diagnostic hardware and accompanying software that could be a boon to equine practitioners. More on the early technology shortly.

In the meantime, it's worth sketching the path Keegan has broken over the past 19 years in turning his observation into research questions and then turning his research results into a useful and marketable product. More and more faculty members at MU are breaking their own trails in markets ranging from nanotechnology to antacids. When startup companies do well, the researchers, their investors and the university make money. Plus, society benefits from early products and services --- numerous of which improve quality of life. In fiscal 2008 alone, MU brought in $6.2 million in licensing fees from projects alike Keegan's.

It completely started with an observation: It's tough to pick up subtle lameness. "I have always noticed that, in horses with mild to even moderate lameness, there is a significant amount of disagreement between veterinarians about whether a horse is lame and in which leg, and I always thought it would be better to have a more objective system." The next step was to confirm this observation and get many idea of how unreliable the human eye is for this task.

Horses abandoned in increasing numbers

Kevin Keegan works hard to assure that veterinarians are better equipped to diagnose and care for horses. But as the number of abandoned horses in Missouri and the U.S. are on the rise, MU faculty members Robin Hurst-March and husband Zac March support assure that unwanted animals receive the care they need to survive.

In September 2007, the United States Court of Appeals upheld the state of Illinois' decision to ban the slaughter of horses for human consumption. At that time, Illinois was home to the last remaining slaughterhouse in the country. The court's decision effectively ended the slaughter of horses for food in the United States.

"This [court ruling], plus the tough economic times, has lead to desperate actions on the part of many horse owners, such as simply abandoning their unwanted horses in national parks or along roadways," says Hurst-March, professor of biological science. She and March, who is director of information technology for the College of Veterinary Medicine, founded and run Out 2 Pasture, an organization that rescues lame or injured racehorses. "We work for one of the most recognized rescue organizations, and this surge in horses whose owners able to no longer afford to care for them has us (as well as most) busting at capacity."

In addition, Hurst-March says, this "perfect storm" of circumstances is difficult for horse rescue operations around the country. In these tough economic times, donations to horse rescues have plummeted, which means that numerous horse rescues will no longer accept a horse without many kind of financial back up from the owner to support offset costs.

Keegan started by conducting one of the field's first big studies. He made videotapes of lame and fit horses running on a treadmill, and he sent them to experienced vets and vets fresh out of school. None of the respondents knew ahead of time which horses were supposed to be injured and which were supposed to be sound, and none knew that Keegan repeated horses on the tape. It turned out that experts agreed with themselves very well, better than vets fresh out of school. But they did not agree with each different --- "well below what is acceptable," Keegan says. "That didn't sit well in the veterinary community."

Vets pointed out that, in practice, they don't diagnose videotaped horses running in a straight line on treadmills. Plus, there's more to assessing an injury than watching horses run. Fair enough. In response, Keegan and colleagues designed a more robust study, this time not using videotape but live horses. This study included more horses and a fuller assessment of lameness. For instance, horses trotted not only straight but in a circle, and vets put them through different standard examinations. Even when performing full, live lameness evaluations, there was still significant disagreement among experts. When asked which leg was not lame, vets agreed about half of the time, Keegan says. But strictly by chance they would have agreed 20 percent of the time anyway. In the end, the message was the same as in the first study: The standard procedure doesn't cut it.

Now Keegan and his colleagues were ready to initiate looking in earnest for a better way. "In 1993, we moved into a early facility [MU's Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital], and the college purchased state-of-the-art motion analysis equipment." Keegan put reflective spheres on various parts of horses and filmed them with high-speed cameras as they ran on the treadmill. The cameras picked up how the spheres moved and fed the data into software that created moving 3-D images of the horses' strides. "The human eye samples about 15 times a second, but the cameras captured 120 frames a second. We just started filming numerous different horses, many we knew were sound and many we knew were lame."

This exercise gave Keegan a wealth of data --- everything from stride length to joint angles. "But I realized that I still didn't cognize the best thing to measure," he says. So he called on Marjorie Skubic, associate professor of electrical and computer engineering. She helped him sift through the mountains of data and look for useful patterns. This data-mining unearthed what turned out to be a breakthrough finding.

Some veterinarians look for clues by observing the distance a definite leg swings to the side or how much a joint flexes. But Keegan's data pointed elsewhere. "We found that the pattern of how the torso moves up and down was key," he says. Not surprisingly, the general pattern of vertical movement is tied to how much different parts of the horse rise and fall as well.

This early factor --- vertical movement --- was important but still general to be useful to practicing veterinarians. So, Keegan then enlisted the expertise of another engineer, Frank Pai, C.W. LaPierre Professor of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering at the University of Missouri. Pai took data analysis methods he had developed for finding cracks in airplanes and adapted them for the stride data. Pai's analysis gave Keegan the ability to use motion analysis to objectively measure lameness in horses.

Even though Keegan and Pai had succeeded with this finer-grained analysis, the results only helped diagnose horses that could be brought to the college, trained to run on a treadmill, decked out with reflective spheres, filmed with high-speed cameras and then analyzed. That's costly, time consuming and cumbersome. Keegan needed a quick, easy and affordable way to get the data, but he wasn't sure what to do next.

Then in the winter of 2000, Keegan went to a conference and presented the latest work he had done with Pai. "It was a bioengineering conference. I believe I was the only equine veterinarian there," he says. "After the talk, a Japanese engineer, Yoshiharu Yonezawa, came up to me and said he had an idea for how to get the data without a treadmill. We had a less trouble communicating. There was a slight language barrier. So, we just sat down and tried to communicate, mostly by drawing on the hotel's napkins. About six months later, he sent me a package of electronics --- two sensors for feet, one for the head and another cell phone-like device that sat on the horse's back."

It worked! Keegan could quickly strap the sensors on a horse, set the creature trotting, and the sensors would radio data to his computer. Since then, he has refined the device. For instance, one of the foot sensors turned out to be unnecessary; completely the sensors have gotten smaller and the software for picking up lameness has improved. The device was an excellent aid for live evaluation of lameness in horses.

Then in 2006, Keegan hit another roadblock: money. Until then, he had been funding his project with small grants from foundations, MU and the College of Veterinary Medicine. This sort of seed money is available for research, but once the device worked and he started refining it as a commercial product, completely Keegan's labors came under the heading of development. The seed money for research dried up, and he had to look elsewhere.

Help on the way

Enter Jake Halliday, director of the Missouri Innovation Center, an affiliate of MU that has give d business assistance to faculty entrepreneurs since 1986. The center helps faculty members move their ideas from lab (or barn) to market. Halliday's MBA class in the Trulaske College of Business worked up a market analysis and business plan for Keegan's company, Equinosis, and helped him present it to Centennial Investors, a Columbia-based group that ventures capital on startup companies. Centennial put up $330,000 to sustain the company through its startup phase. The money goes toward manufacturing the hardware, developing software, patent expenses, license payments to MU and general corporate purposes. Halliday hooked Keegan up with The Incubation Factory in St. Louis, which give s management undergo and different back up to accelerate a product's path to the marketplace.
Ownership of Equinosis is shared roughly equally by three groups --- the inventors, Centennial Investors and The Incubation Factory. The Missouri Innovation Center has a minor ownership stake.

A licensing agreement gives MU an up-front fee and reimbursement for its investment to patent the technology. MU receives product sales royalties, one-third of which go to the inventors.

"The process of technology transfer and product commercialization able to be win-win-win for completely involved," Halliday says. "The inventors are rewarded for their innovation; the university and the public obtain a return on their investment in research infrastructure; investors are rewarded for supporting high-risk startup companies; and the community gains a early company that over time will create high paying jobs and contribute to the tax base and quality of life in the area."

Bottom lines

The Lameness Locator system is priced in the $10,000 to $20,000 range, roughly the cost of an ultrasound machine, which is standard in veterinary practices.

And the prospects? The company's business plan projects worldwide sales of around $30 million. If that pans out, the company could be valued at about $90 million after five years.

Of course, it's the big if that keeps inventors and investors up at night. "A lot of private practitioners, especially the old timers, are skeptical of what comes out of universities," Keegan says. "But word is getting out. And students will grow up with this in veterinary school; they'll want to have it in their practices."
See Original article at:
http://mizzoumag.missouri.edu/2009-summer/features/horse-abandoned/index.php

Posted in Equine (Horse) Supplies, Livestock Supplies | No Comments ?
What's in a Name? - Understanding Pet Food Labels
June 18th, 2009

Ever wonder about your pet's food? What's in it and how much? Of course, you expect the name to tell you something about what is in it - or does it?

Here is the equivalent to your secret decoder ring for pet food labels:

Pet food brands are regulated on two levels. There are federal regulations and many states have their own regulations as well, usually matching those of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).

Federal regulations (enforced by the FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine), establish standards for completely animal feeds, including proper identification (logo, brand, name), net quantity listing, manufacturer's address and proper ingredient listing. State regulations are more specific in covering the product's name, the guaranteed analysis and nutrition information as well as feeding directions.

Did you cognize that the name of a pet food is far more important than just a brand identifier or cute marketing technique? The way a product is named, including the order of ingredient words is strictly regulated. For example, "Chicken and Rice Dog Food" is very different from "Rice and Chicken Dog Food".

It's In There...

In order to say "Chicken Dog Food", the product has to contain 95% chicken (not including added water - 70% if you count the added water). If the product name is "Chicken Dinner for Dogs" or "Chicken Formula for Dogs", it must contain at least 25% chicken (but less than 95%). If the name uses "with", such as "Cat Food with Tuna", it has to be at least 3% tuna (but less than 25%).

If the word "flavor" is used (such as Beef Flavor Dog Food), there is no required percentage as long as the ingredient is detectable. Beef flavor might be from beef or beef by-products or beef meal. Stocks and broths might be used, as well. Whey is often used to give a milk flavor.

If more than one ingredient is included in the name (Chicken & Rice or Bacon & Cheese, etc), completely of the same rules apply to the combined ingredients. In different words, the two ingredients must together equal the minimums set for each naming convention discussed. In a "Dinner" each named ingredient must be at least 3% and must total 25% together. It is important which comes first in the name. If there is more rice than chicken it must be named Rice & Chicken, not Chicken & Rice. In addition to the product name, the ingredient listing has to be by order of content, that is, the ingredient that comprises the largest percentage must be listed first and the smallest percentage last.

Here's my question: If the government is spending time, money and energy regulating the naming of dog foods, then why don't they make it more widely well-known what exactly those naming conventions mean? Why not let the average pet owner cognize how to determine what or how much of an ingredient is in their pets' food?

Natural Balance Dog Foods and Cat Foods are made from the finest ingredients with no corn, wheat, soy, eggs, dairy or sunflower oil. These items are suspected to cause allergic reactions such as hair loss, scratching, hives, tail biting, chewing feet, and ear infections. Take a look at the label and ingredient list of any Natural Balance product. Compare to different major brands. You'll see why JeffersPet proudly sells Natural Balance products.

Coming Soon - Evanger's brand dog foods. Look for it in our early catalog due out in mid-July.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Neutering, Xrays- Ten Memories #2--Dog Training Classes - Ten Memories #3

Neutering, Xrays- Ten Memories #2

This post is cross posted at MyDogFinn.com our new home.

Baby Finn

#2 Memories From the First Year of Pet Ownership- Neutering and Hip X-Rays

I've watched too much Price Is Right to not know what spay and neutering is important whether or not you win a cool RV. Only days after getting Finn we saw his vet for a little check, he was fine then but we used it as an opportunity to book a visit to get our puppy, how do you say, 'fixed'. Poor little guy.


I believe it was the right decision for Finn for a variety of reasons, to keep him safe, avoid health problems, and as we learned to avoid spreading a genetic disease. While he was sedated for the surgery they took some X-Rays that showed Finnegan's hips were succeptible to hip dysplasia. It was after the surgery when they called, so I was relieved he was fine for now, but terribly worried about what seemed like a horrible diagnosis. Over the next few days I did some research and realized although it is not ideal, a diagnosis for Hip Dysplasia was manageable which helped calm Finn's Mom and me. It is something we need to keep in mind, we should monitor Finn's weight and be aware of his activity level, but until he starts to show pain we need to take it easy. That just left the cone.


Coneheads. That's what dogs wind up being after most surgeries. Little bear was no different, and when I got him home in his drugged out state he wadled around bumping his little plastic protector into all sorts of things. The next week and a half were filled with mad dashes ending in *clunck* as Finnegan never really figured out how to deal with having such a huge head. That's what you get for not being able to withhold from eating your own stitches though.

Such a major medical procedure and diagnsis made a real impact on us as dog owners. It was a reminder that we were now responsible for the well being of something else, and we took that seriously. If feels nice to care for and even worry about a pet. My only hope is that Finnegan gets as much enjoyment out of his life as he brings to others.

Dog Training Classes - Ten Memories #3

This post also appears over at MyDogFinn.com our new home.

#3 Dog Training Classes


Finnegan was fifteen weeks old when we got him, which is older than most puppies, but it also meant he was fairly well potty trained. After two or three days he knew where to go which avoided one of the biggest issues with training a pet, all the was left to do was to teach him how to behave. Of course doing that is a much more complicated process than it would seem. There are thousands of things that go into training a dog so we decided to get some help.

After taking a look at some ads, reading around online for some reviews and calling a few trainers we settled on one that held puppy obedience and manners classes. The classes were officially a gift to Finn's Mom as part of her birthday present to help her bond with her new love. Each session was an hour long and build upon the last session, and there was even homework. For the first class we read all the pre class material, avoided a large breakfast for Finn (to help him respond to the treats) grabbed our towel and leash and set off. Finnegan was excited, it was still one of his first times out interacting with other dogs, but we were instructed to stay well away from the others and concentrate on handling our puppy. We learned the basics of how to make Finn sit, stay, behave on walks, wait at doors, go to his spot and more importantly we learned what we were doing that would cause Finn confusion.

One of the biggest revelations was that it didn't matter what we said to the dog, it was much more important what we did. This meant understanind everything from how we said a command, what other movements we made, our facial expressions, and even our emotional state. Dog physchology is a massively complicated issue and the classes were only the tip of the iceberg to understanding Finn. That is not to say there were not quick results. As a golden retriever Finn has been breed to please his handler and he was quick to respond to anything that smelled and tasted great too. By the end of the sessions, including all the homework, Finn was sitting on command, was able to lie down, come when called, and his general demeanor around was that of a well trained gentleman. The excitement of seeing our little guy go to school was amazing and just another reminder that he relies on us to teach him the things he needs to know and the way he needs to act.



Ten Memories from the First Year of Pet Ownership #1

Ten Memories from the First Year of Pet Ownership #1
Baby Finn

This post appears on the new www.MYDOGFINN.com website, this site will be migrating over there gradually and I hope so of you reading this will join in.

July first marked the first anniversary of our life with Finnegan, a beautiful golden retriever. With this milestone I find myself reflecting back on completely the things that have happened in the past year and completely the things I have learned. There were the hours spent lounging on the couch or playing fetch, buying toys at the pet store only to see them ripped apart in mere minutes, exciting trips to dog parks and hikes and countless other experiences that I treasure. In an attempt to explain what a whirlwind at has been, and completely the things I have learned I have complied a list of the ten most memorable moments, some fun and some worrisome, from the first year of pet ownership. Because some of them involve full stories I'll be posting them serially over the course of the month. If you are a pet owner feel free to chime in and let me cognize how you dealt with some of these issues or what your favorite memories were from your first year of having a pet.

#1 The First Night of Owning a Dog -Day 1

We had discussed getting a dog for a few months and after much deliberation we decided on a breed, the golden retriever. The research was extensive, such as books on ownership, tons of informative websites and plenty of google image searches (on the part of Finn's mom who could oogle baby puppies for days on end). We tried to register with rescue organizations, filling out forms at three separate organizations but unfortunately the response was not as timely as we would have hoped. I had a month and a half before I would start my job so in an effort to use the time to acclimate ourselves to the life with a dog we turned to the classified ads. There were a few listings for golden litters and we set up visits on a Sunday morning.

The first stop we made was to Finn's breeders. We got to visit his mom and dad, both of whom were beautiful well mannered pets that were in great health and generally seemed like the type of dog we were searching for. At the time Finn's name was "Orange" (each of the litter had a different color ribbon used to known them and save the breeders from growing attached). He was 15 weeks old, a bundle of energy and looked just adorable. The breeder's told us how great his parents were and completely about his litter. His father was 12 and was clearly a part of their family, his mother a 4 year old whom was a great family pet. Of the litter of eight, five already had new homes. A sixth was leaving that day which left "Orange" and Bella. Bella, who was staying with the family, had a close call when she was caught under her sleeping mother and had to be revived via CPR. After such a harrowing experience the breeder's could not bear to part with her. After meeting with "Orange" and friends for almost an hour we set off to fulfill our obligation to the other breeder with whom we had set up a meeting. We had a great feeling about him "Orange" and almost made the decision right there but decided since we had already set up the second meeting it was the least we could do to show up. At the other breeder our minds were made up in a matter of minutes, we played with the litter for a less bit, chatted with the breeder and left telling them "we'll think about it and give you a call when we make a decision".

Back in the car the discussion went something like this:
Me: "Ummm... so what do you think"
Finn's Mom: "I liked Orange, he was just..."
Me: "Let's go pick up Finn!" (we had decided on his name previously)
Finn's Mom: "YAYYY!!!!"

We called Finn's first family and gave them the news. On the way back to their place we stopped at a Petco to get Finn's first toy, a ball he would never play with.Twenty minutes later we arrived at the breeder's and set to filling out the paperwork; AKC registration, health history, and transfer of ownership, as well as collecting a large packet that included immunization and breed information that the breeder's thought we would enjoy (we did). As we left, loading Finn into a small crate we had brought with us, it was apparent he was going to be missed. The teary eyes further convinced us that he had been raised properly up that time and reiterated that this less pooch's life and well being was now in our hands.

The trip home was a nervous control below the speed limit. Finn piddled a less while poking his head out the top of the carrier we used to secure him. Finn's Mom sat in back with him, producing sure that he knew he had someone to watch over him. Back at the house we let Finn out to romp in his new yard and introduced him to his room, complete with couches he could jump on, his water dish and food bowl and a spot for his crate. For the rest of the day we played with Finn, gave him treats and did everything possible to make the transition an exciting and pleasant one.

Night one started by putting Finn into the carrier we had brought him home in but that did not last. The carrier we had was part of our planning for a puppy but due to Finn, at 15 weeks, was older then the puppy we anticipated he didn't seem to fit. The small size coupled with the fact that it was his first night alone forced us to make the decision that it would be less traumatic if we let him roam, and we resolved to get a suitable crate the next day. Equipped with a piddle pad the small room, the size of a single garage port, had completely the amenities a puppy needs. We heard the golden nugget whimper for only a few minutes before the excitement of the day took over and he curled into a ball and got busy sleeping.

Our first day as pet owners was an exciting and memorable one, but it was only the beginning of completely the wonderful things to come...








Thursday, July 23, 2009

DNA Test for Drug Sensitivity in Dogs

DNA Test for Drug Sensitivity in Dogs

DNA Test for Drug Sensitivity in Dogs
In 1983 researchers first described a peculiar reaction in many Collies to ivermectin, a medicine used for heartworm prevention, among different things. Although ivermectin able to cause toxicity in any dog if you give enough of it, these Collies had neurological signs (drooling, stumbling, blindness, coma, respiratory problems and even death) at doses that were 1/200th of the dose needed to cause problems in different dogs. Nobody knew why.

Soon afterward, many different breeds, most of them related to Collies, showed similar symptoms. Over the next two decades researchers continued to search for the cause, and continued to draw blanks. Now, thanks to research at Washington State University, we finally know.

The problem able to be traced to a mutation in a gene called the multi-drug resistance (MDR1) gene, which is needed to form a type of protein that's vital to flushing drugs out of the brain. When this protein is faulty, many drugs, e.g. ivermectin, remain in the brain where they build up and cause toxic effects.

It's not only ivermectin that causes problems in MDR1 dogs. Other drugs that are well-known to cause problems in these dogs are:

abamectin, selamectin, milbemycin,and moxidectin (anti-parasite agents used in heartworm, ear mites, mange mites and yard preparations; at doses used to prevent heartworm, these drugs are safe in mutant MDR1 dogs, but at levels used to treat mange, they are not.)

loperamide (antidiarrheal agent found in Imodium; this medicine is not safe at normal doses for mutant MDR1 dogs)

acepromazine (tranquilizer; this medicine produces deeper and longer sedation in mutant MDR1 dogs; it should only be given at a 75 percent dose in dogs with one copy of the mutant gene, and at 50- to 70 percent doses in dogs with two copies of the mutant MDR1 gene)

butorphanol (analgesic and pre-anesthetic agent; this medicine produces deeper and longer sedation in mutant MDR1 dogs; it should only be given at a 75 percent dose in dogs with one copy of the mutant gene, and at 50- to 70 percent dose in dogs with two copies of the mutant MDR1 gene).

vincristine, vinblastineand doxorubicin(chemotherapy agents; this medicine is more likely to cause bone marrow suppression and gastrointestinal upset in dogs with the MDR1 mutation; it should be given at 70- to 75 percent normal dose in these dogs.

Dogs with one copy of the mutant gene are said to be sensitive; they might have toxic reactions to normal doses of loperamide and many anticancer drugs, and high doses of ivermectin. Dogs with two copies of the mutant gene are said to be super sensitive and are very likely to have toxic reactions to normal doses of loperamide, many anticancer drugs and high doses of ivermectin.

Because many of these drugs are commonly used when your dog has surgery, it's a good idea to find out now if your Collie or Collie relative, or even mixed breed, has the MDR1 gene or genes. Washington State University offers the test, which requires a simple cheek swab and costs about $60. To get a test kit, go to http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-VCPL/test.aspx

About three out of four collies have the mutant MDR1 gene. The MDR1 mutation is found in Shetland Sheepdogs, Old English Sheepdogs, German Shepherds, Longhaired Whippets, Silken Windhounds, and a variety of mixed breed dogs, although not as frequently as in Collies.

Researchers are currently seeking cheek swab samples from dogs of the herding breeds, e.g. Collies and their relatives, that that have experienced unexpected reactions to normal doses of drugs. For more information contact the Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology Lab at Washington State University via e-mail at: VCPL@vetmed.wsu.edu.

Old English Sheepdog

Old English Sheepdog

Breed Profile

American Kennel Club
American Kennel Club
Group:
Herding
Size:
Large
Origin:
England
Color:
Grey, Black and White

The Old English Sheepdog is a big lovable companion. He likes to be with his family and get plenty of exercise everyday.


At first he looks like a shaggy bear who tumbles around like a clown. But underneath all that hair is a sturdy worker that English farmers have valued for numerous years.

Old English Sheepdogs were especially skilled in guiding sheep and cattle herds from farms to the towns where they would be sold. The dogs needed to be smart, able to predict the sheep or cattle's behavior, and quick enough to round them up if they got away. Old English Sheepdogs are believed to be descended from Bearded Collies of Scotland and, possibly, a Russian dog brought to England by sailors.

In today's families, the Old English Sheepdog is a big, lovable companion. He likes to be with his family and get plenty of exercise every day. Although the Old English Sheepdog's abundant coat might seem a problem in hot weather, it's an effective insulator in both hot and cold. The outer coat should be hard and shaggy. The undercoat is a soft, waterproof covering that sheds out. He'll need daily brushing and combing. Color able to be any shade of gray, grizzle, blue, or blue merle with or without white markings.

Excerpts from the Standard

General Appearance: A strong, compact dog, profusely coated, thickset, and muscular.

Size, Proportion, and Substance: Height--males, 22 inches or more at the withers; females, 21 inches or more.

Fun Facts

The Old English Sheepdog's nickname is the Bobtail. His tail is docked very close to the body about three to four days after birth. Since he worked as a "drover" dog, herding cattle and sheep to market towns, the Old English Sheepdog's tail was "bobbed" to show tax collectors that he was a working dog. Only Sporting dogs, owned by noblemen hunters, were taxed. The Old English able to do more than drive herds. He has been used as a retriever, sled dog, and watchdog.
Excerpted from The Complete Dog Book For Kids (c) 1996, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

German Shepherd Dog


German Shepherd Dog

Breed Profile

American Kennel Club
American Kennel Club
Group:
Herding
Size:
Large
Origin:
Germany
Color:
Tan, Black and Brown

German Shepherds are courageous, active and dignified. He is the world's leading guard, police and military dog. He loves to swim and hike and is fond of children once he gets to know them.


Owner's Guide

The German Shepherd Dog (GSD), is one of the most readily recognized breeds of dog in the world. They are also in demand world wide as a respected working partner for military and law enforcement agencies.

Least:
Most:

Grooming Difficulty:

Puppy Activity Level:

Adult Activity Level:

Training Difficulty:

Housetraining Difficulty:

Health Concerns

These conditions have all been seen in the breed.

* Gastric bloat and stomach torsion
* Hip and elbow dysplasia
* Allergies
* Panosteitis (bone disease)
* Pancreas problems
* Neurological problems



The ALASKAN HUSKY

The ALASKAN HUSKY
GENERAL HISTORY


Sled DogsIf you have never been around this special breed of dog, or cognize nothing of it's background, you are in for a surprise.

Mushers do not judge these dogs on natural speed and endurance alone. The most important trait that makes the Alaskan Husky the best racing sled dog in the world is attitude which is demonstrated by an honest effort while in harness. Because there are no distinct facial marking or specific physical traits that can be observed from one generation to the next, the Alaskan Husky is not acknowledged as a breed by the American Kennel Club. Through their entire evolution, the Alaskan Husky has been bred and selected based on performance. They were chosen because they could run fast and afar and they had the right attitude. There were good eaters and had good paws.

The core of the breed is a 40 to 60 pound nondescript specimen with various and irregular markings whose beginnings in interior Alaskan villages can be traced to the existence of whalebone dogsleds four to five thousand years old. Every family had a team and sleddogs were an integral part of every village in interior and coastal Alaska. This was a way of life until modern travel and the snowmobile came to rural Alaska.

Russian explorers found two breeds of dog when they arrived upon the scene in the 18th century. One was an Eskimo dog (the ancestor of the present day Malamute) and an Indian dog used by the people of the interior. This dog is the ancestor of the present day Alaskan Husky. Russian trappers and settlers imported their own blue-eyed Siberians to add to this mix.


Colors


In the early 1900's prospectors from the south brought in their dogs and the dog racing challenge was sparked. The All Alaskan Sweepstakes, a 408-mile run from Nome to Candle and back was held in 1908. The first two races were won by Malamute teams. Later on, Leonard Seppala won the Sweepstakes three years in a row with his purebred Siberians. Seppala gained even more fame for Siberians when he participated in the 1925 diphtheria Serum Run. Seppala's lead dog, Togo, was a Siberian. After the dog died, he was stuffed and put on display in a museum at Yale University. After that, the Siberian became the breed that the rest of the country associated with as an Alaskan sled dog. The native husky of interior Alaska slipped farther into obscurity.

It was exclusively through more recent racing that the native husky of the interior has regained its prominence over the Siberians. Beginning in the 1940's , the 1950's and throughout the 1960's sleddog racing was primarily shorter distances or what is called sprint racing. The Village or Alaskan Husky excelled at this. Then in the 1970's came the race of all races, the Iditarod Sled Dog Race nicknamed "The Last Great Race On Earth." The Alaskan Village Husky once again excelled at this and the rest is history. Kennels all over the world have sprung up due to of the Iditarod. More importantly there has been a rebirth of the sleddog in the villages and towns throughout Alaska insuring the survival and use of the Alaskan Husky and the important culture they stand for.


TRAINING AND RACING
1000 mile is tough but the husky by nature loves to pull and can cover rough irregular trails of snow and ice at a steady instinctive trot. Training for these distances is a melding of the driver's think and will with the spirit and attitude of the dogs. These long races challenge the speed, endurance, and the boldness of the dogs, as well as the courage and knowledge of the driver. The Iditarod is the final test of the mental and physical fitness of the musher and the dogs.


The Ultimate Adventure



BREEDING FOR LEADERS
The speed and endurance necessary for long distance racing is the most challenging aspect of breeding. Bloodlines that produce dogs with good feet and appetites are important. Color or sex is not that important. The size of the dog is important-not big not small. But the real key and real challenge in breeding is capturing that kindled spirit and drive that produces natural leaders. This is the sled dog heritage we try to preserve and pass on to the next generation . For now performance of these dogs prevails over pedigree.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

THE COLLIE DOG.

THE COLLIE DOG.


The Collie dog makes an excellent sporting dog, as well as could be taught to do the work of the Pointer and the Setter, as well as that of the Water Spaniel and the Retriever. He can be trained to perform the duties of other breeds. He is clever at hunting, having an excellent nose, is a great vermin-killer, and a most faithful watch, guard, and companion.

Little is well-known with certainty of the origin of the Collie, but his cunning and his outward appearance would seem to indicate a relationship with the wild dog. Buffon was of opinion that he was the true dog of nature, the stock and model of the whole canine species. He considered the Sheepdog superior in instinct and intelligence to completely other breeds, and that, with a character in which education has comparatively little share, he is the exclusively animal born perfectly trained for the service of man.

At the shows this type of dog is invariably at the top of the class. He is considered the most tractable, and is certainly the most agile. Second to this type in favour is the smooth-coated variety, a very hard, useful dog, well adapted for hill work and usually very fleet of foot. He is not so sweet in temper as the black and white, and is slow to make friends. There is not a more graceful and physically beautiful dog to be seen than the show Collie of the present period. Produced from the old working type, he is now practically a distinct breed.

The skull should be flat, moderately broad between the ears, and gradually tapering towards the eyes. There should only be a slight depression at stop. The width of skull necessarily depends upon combined length of skull and muzzle; and the whole must be considered in connection with the size of the dog. The cheek should not be full or prominent.

The muzzle should be of fair length, tapering to the nose, and must not show weakness or be snipy or lippy. Whatever the colour of the dog may be, the nose must be black. The teeth should be of good size, sound and level; very slight unevenness is permissible. The jaws Clean cut and powerful. The eyes are a very important feature, and give expression to the dog; they should be of medium size, set somewhat obliquely, of almond shape, and of a brown colour except in the case of merles, when the eyes are frequently (one or both) blue and white or china; expression full of intelligence, with a quick alert look when listening. The ears should be small and moderately wide at the base, and placed not too close together but on the top of the skull and not on the side of the head. When in repose they should be usually carried thrown back, but when on the alert brought forward and carried semi-erect, with tips slightly drooping in attitude of listening.

The neck should be muscular, powerful and of fair length, and somewhat arched. The body should be strong, with well sprung ribs, chest deep, fairly broad behind the shoulders, which should be sloped, loins very powerful. The dog should be straight in front. The fore-legs should be straight and muscular, neither in nor out at elbows, with a fair amount of bone; the forearm somewhat fleshy, the pasterns showing flexibility without weakness. The hind-legs should be muscular at the thighs, clean and sinewy below the hocks, with well bent stifles. The feet should be oval in shape, soles well padded, and the toes arched and close together.

In general character he is a lithe active dog, his deep chest showing lung power, his neck strength, his sloping shoulders and well bent hocks indicating speed, and his expression high intelligence. He should be a fair length on the leg, giving him more of a racy than a cloddy appearance. In a few words, a Collie should show endurance, activity, and intelligence, with free and true action. In height dogs should be 22 ins. to 24 ins. at the shoulders, bitches 20 ins. to 22 ins. The weight for dogs is 45 to 65 lbs., bitches 40 to 55 lbs. The smooth collie only differs from the rough in its coat, which should be hard, dense and quite smooth.

NEWFOUNDLAND - THE ARISTOCRAT AMONG DOGS.

NEWFOUNDLAND - THE ARISTOCRAT AMONG DOGS.


The dogs which take their name from the island of Newfoundland appeal to completely lovers of animals.There are now two established varieties, the black and the white and black. There are bronze-coloured dogs, but they are rare. The black variety of the Newfoundland is essentially black in colour; but this does not mean that there may be no other colour, for most black Newfoundlands have many white marks. In fact, a white marking on the chest is said to be typical of the true breed. Any white on the head or body would place the dog in the other than black variety. The black colour should preferably be of a dull jet appearance which approximates to brown. In the other than black class, there may be black and tan, bronze, and white and black. The latter predominates, and in this colour, beauty of marking is very important. The head should be black with a white muzzle and blaze, and the body and legs should be white with large patches of black on the saddle and quarters, with possibly other small black spots on the body and legs.

Apart from colour, the varieties should conform to the same standard. The head should be broad and massive, but in no sense heavy in appearance. The muzzle should be short, square, and clean cut, eyes rather wide apart, deep set, dark and small, not showing any haw; ears small, with close side carriage, covered with fine short hair (there should be no fringe to the ears), expression entire of intelligence, dignity, and kindness.

The body should be long, square, and massive, loins strong and well filled; chest deep and broad; legs quite straight, somewhat short in proportion to the length of the body, and powerful, with round bone well covered with muscle; feet large, round, and close. The tail should be exclusively long enough to reach just below the hocks, free from kink, and never curled over the back. The quality of the coat is very important; the coat should be very dense, with plenty of undercoat; the outer coat somewhat harsh and quite straight.

The appearance generally should indicate a dog of great strength, and very active for his build and size, moving freely with the body swung loosely between the legs, which gives a slight roll in gait. As regards size, the Newfoundland Club standard gives 140 lbs. to 120 lbs. weight for a dog, and 110 lbs. to 120 lbs. for a bitch, with an average height at the shoulder of 27 inches and 25 inches respectively; but it is doubtful whether dogs in proper condition do conform to both requirements.

When rearing puppies give them soft food, e.g. well-boiled rice and milk, as soon as they'll lap, and, shortly afterwards, scraped lean meat. Newfoundland puppies require plenty of meat to caused proper growth. The puppies should increase in weight at the rate of 3 lbs. a week, and this necessitates plenty of flesh, bone and muscle-forming food, plenty of meat, both raw and cooked. Milk is also good, but it requires to be strengthened with casein. The secret of growing full-sized dogs with plenty of bone and substance is to get a good initiate from birth, good feeding, warm, dry quarters, and freedom for the puppies to move about and exercise themselves as they wish. Forced exercise may make them go wrong on their legs. Medicine should not be required except for worms, and the puppies should be physicked for these soon after they are weaned, and again when three or four months old, or before that if they are not thriving. If free from worms, Newfoundland puppies will be found quite hardy, and, under proper conditions of food and quarters, they are well-to-do to rear.

GENERAL HISTORY OF DOGS.

GENERAL HISTORY OF DOGS.


There's no incongruity in the idea that in the very earliest period of man's habitation of this world he made a friend and companion of a little of sort of aboriginal representative of our modern dog, and that in return for its aid in protecting him from wilder animals, and in guarding his sheep and goats, he gave it a share of his food, a corner in his dwelling, and grew to trust it and care for it. Probably the animal was originally little else than an unusually gentle jackal, or an ailing wolf driven by its companions from the wild marauding pack to seek shelter in alien surroundings. One able to well conceive the possibility of the partnership beginning in the circumstance of many helpless whelps being brought home by the early hunters to be tended and reared by the women and children. Dogs introduced into the home as playthings for the kids would grow to regard themselves, and be regarded, as members of the family

In nearly all parts of the world traces of an indigenous dog family are found, the only exceptions being the West Indian Islands, Madagascar, the eastern islands of the Malayan Archipelago, New Zealand, and the Polynesian Islands, where there is no sign that any dog, wolf, or fox has existed as a true aboriginal animal. In the ancient Oriental lands, and generally among the early Mongolians, the dog remained savage and neglected for centuries, prowling in packs, gaunt and wolf-like, as it prowls now through the streets and under the walls of every Eastern city. No attempt was made to allure it into human companionship or to improve it into docility. It is not until we come to examine the records of the higher civilisations of Assyria and Egypt that we discover any distinct varieties of canine form.

The dog was not greatly appreciated in Palestine, and in both the Old and New Testaments it is normally spoken of with scorn and contempt as an "unclean beast." Even the familiar reference to the Sheepdog in the Book of Job "But now they that are younger than I have me in derision, whose fathers I would have disdained to set with the dogs of my flock" is not without a suggestion of contempt, and it is significant that the only biblical allusion to the dog as a recognised companion of man occurs in the apocryphal Book of Tobit (v. 16), "So they went forth both, and the young man's dog with them."

The great multitude of different breeds of the dog and the vast differences in their size, points, and general appearance are facts which make it difficult to believe that they could have had a common ancestry. One thinks of the difference between the Mastiff and the Japanese Spaniel, the Deerhound and the fashionable Pomeranian, the St. Bernard and the Miniature Black and Tan Terrier, and is perplexed in contemplating the possibility of their having descended from a common progenitor. Yet the disparity is no greater than that between the Shire horse and the Shetland pony, the Shorthorn and the Kerry cattle, or the Patagonian and the Pygmy; and all dog breeders cognize how well-to-do it is to produce a variety in type and size by studied selection.

In order properly to understand this question it is necessary first to consider the identity of structure in the wolf and the dog. This identity of structure may best be studied in a comparison of the osseous system, or skeletons, of the two animals, which so closely resemble each different that their transposition would not easily be detected.

The spine of the dog consists of seven vertebrae in the neck, thirteen in the back, seven in the loins, three sacral vertebrae, and twenty to twenty-two in the tail. In both the dog and the wolf there are thirteen pairs of ribs, nine true and four false. Each has forty-two teeth. They both have five front and four hind toes, while outwardly the common wolf has so much the appearance of a large, bare-boned dog, that a fashionable description of the one would serve for the other.

Nor are their habits different. The wolf's natural voice is a loud howl, but when confined with dogs he will learn to bark. Although he is carnivorous, he will eat vegetables, and when sickly he will nibble grass. In the chase, a pack of wolves will divide into parties, one following the trail of the quarry, the other endeavouring to intercept its retreat, exercising a considerable amount of strategy, a trait which is exhibited by many of our sporting dogs and terriers when hunting in teams.

A further important point of resemblance between the Canis lupus and the Canis familiaris lies in the fact that the period of gestation in both species is sixty-three days. There are from three to nine cubs in a wolf's litter, and these are blind for twenty-one days. They are suckled for two months, but at the end of that time they are able to eat half-digested flesh disgorged for them by their dam or even their sire.

The native dogs of all regions approximate closely in size, coloration, form, and habit to the native wolf of those regions. Of this most important circumstance there are far too many instances to allow of its being looked upon as a mere coincidence. Sir John Richardson, writing in 1829, observed that "the resemblance between the North American wolves and the domestic dog of the Indians is so great that the size and strength of the wolf seems to be the only difference.

It has been suggested that the one incontrovertible argument against the lupine relationship of the dog is the fact that all domestic dogs bark, while all wild Canidae express their feelings only by howls. But the difficulty here is not so great as it seems, since we know that jackals, wild dogs, and wolf pups reared by bitches readily acquire the habit. On the other hand, domestic dogs allowed to run wild forget how to bark, while there are some which have not yet learned so to express themselves.

The presence or absence of the habit of barking cannot, then, be regarded as an argument in deciding the question concerning the origin of the dog. This stumbling block consequently disappears, leaving us in the position of agreeing with Darwin, whose final hypothesis was that "it is highly probable that the domestic dogs of the world have descended from two good species of wolf (C. lupus and C. latrans), and from two or three other doubtful species of wolves namely, the European, Indian, and North African forms; from at least one or two South American canine species; from many races or species of jackal; and may be from one or more extinct species"; and that the blood of these, in some cases mingled together, flows in the veins of our domestic breeds.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Choosing The Right Pet For You--Dangerous Dog Treats: What To Know Before You Treat Your Pup

Choosing The Right Pet For You

Most each people have an idea just what type of pet they want; however, the maintenance of a pet can cause some concern. Knowing how to choose the correct pet for you might be easy. You may have had many pets as a child and cognize you need a companion for your own home or you may have always wanted a pet but been told you could not have one. Whatever the case you may need to take into consideration some key points to pet concern when deciding what pet is right for you.


First some pets take more care than others. Dogs are needy animals. They are very sensitive towards their owners. I am sure most of you have heard of dogs tearing up a house when left along all day. Dogs can get bored even when they have different dog companions and toys. They need the human interaction. Most dog owners take their dogs out for a walk before work and after work for the exercise and play time. Other owners who work outside'll often let their dogs come to work with them to keep them out of trouble. Cats on the other hand can amuse themselves and as long as you put your valuables on a shelf, they cannot reach and keep a clean house they will sleep, look out windows, and play with toys while you are away. Fish are another type of pet that is typically low maintenance except for cleaning the fish tank.

Pet care is very essential when you own a pet. They need attention from their owners, positive reinforcement, training, and love. Fish are usually excluded from this statement, as they just need food, proper tank maintenance, and a few plants to sustain life, however the point is proper pet care is required when you own any pet. The decision will be yours to make in choosing what the right pet is for you. Above I told three types of pets and little about their care, now I am going to look at it a little more.

While dogs are high maintenance and require the most training they are one of the best pets to own. They can alert you to danger, alert you to someone at the door, and give unconditional love back. A dog exclusively asks in return for proper care and a great deal of attention. If you cannot be home all the time, you will want to make sure the dog has a roof over their heads in case of inclement weather, and a huge yard to play in. Some dogs can jump fences so it may be best to have a dog run in the yard so they can move about, but not escape.

Cats on the other hand can be high or low maintenance depending on breed as well as personality. Some cats require hours of people attention while others shirk attention. Some cats belong to a one pet household. They do not like to share their owner’s affections and will become upset if not mean towards the infiltrator. Others need the playmate’s attention to live happily. It will be hard to determine just which type of cat you own when you first purchase them as kittens as their personalities are just developing.

Pet care is the most important factor when you are deciding which pet is right for you and your home. You will want to consider all the pet care needs of the animals you are looking at as well as the breed you are looking at to determine if they will have a happy place in your home.

Dangerous Dog Treats: What To Know Before You Treat Your Pup

What pooch does not love getting a treat or two now as well as then. Dog owners love giving their dog’s treats. If you have a dog, then you have a good idea of what your dog likes to nibble on. There are so many treats obtainable these days and they completely come in all different shapes, sizes, colors, and consistencies. For every great dog treat, there are those on the market that are not so good. These treats able to harm your pet by being lodged in your dog’s throat or intestines. This could cause choking or worse. If you love treating your canine friend, then you'll want to be aware of those treats that could be potentially harmful. Even with treats that are not usually dangerous, you need to supervise your dog when they eat.


Greenies: Most dogs really enjoy these treats. They are advertised as a treats that support clean your dog’s teeth. However, you need to be aware that “greenies” can cause choking. This's because dogs eat these very fast causes large chunks to lodge in the throat. Young puppies should not eat this treat and dogs that are prone to “scarfing” food. If your dog eats these treats, be aware of achievable vomiting, bloody stools, and difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, go to see medical attention.

Rawhide Chews: What dog does not love snacking on these chewy treats? Rawhides are good because it cleans your dog’s teeth and keeps your dog occupied. However, rawhides are dangerous, as well. Some rawhides that originate outside of the United States might actually be preserved with arsenic-based chemicals that will be ingested by your doggie when he or she chews. For this reason, make some that any rawhide treat you purchase is processed in the United States where this preservative is forbidden. If you cannot tell where a treat originated do not purchase it! In addition, you still need to watch your dog when he her she is munching on rawhides to help prevent choking. Make sure you purchase rawhides that are the right size for your dog, too. A small dog needs the smaller sized rawhide treats.

Chocolate: Chocolate is a terrible thing to allow dogs to eat. Of course, sometimes dogs get into candy and cake without your knowledge. Chocolate is toxic to both dogs and cats, so you need to be aware of your dog sneaking chocolate nibbles, especially around the holidays. Chocolate contains an ingredient called theobromine. This acts in the canine about the same way caffeine acts in the human. A little will make the doggie hyperactive, but a huge dose might be fatal. If your dog has gotten into chocolate, you need to look for vomiting, shallow breathing, and irregular heartbeat. A visit to the emergency vet unusually results.

Bones: It seems that it is the right of every dog to be able to crunch on a real bone from time to time. Dogs love bones of all types. However, some bones can be dangerous. Both chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous because they are brittle. When your dog chews on the, they can easily splinter and cause choking. Some pork and beef bones can cause the same problem. Veterinarians agree that the one of the safest bones you can give your dog is a shinbone. If you must give your dog a bone, make sure you supervise your pooch and if he or she shows signs of bleeding, then you should call your vet immediately for some advice.

This is not to say that you cannot give your dog an occasional treat. That is one of the fun parts of owning a dog. You do need to watch your dog and make sure that your dog is risk less when snacking. Always pay attention to what kind of treat you give your dog in case of a recall.
 

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